In Memory Of Pat Whitfield


Pat Whitffield07212013

Saturday, I attended a memorial service for Pat Whitfield, who was born in  1913 and lived for more than 100  years. What was remarkable about Pat was not that she lived so long, but how deeply she touched the lives of everyone she met along the way. You see, Pat had an extraordinary gift for making everyone she met feel special. She instantly welcomed us all into her circle of friends. She taught us how to laugh and how to smile. Her love was unconditional and she shared it generously. Those fortunate enough to know Pat will always  cherish the feeling of being bathed in the warm glow of her smile and surrounded by the music of her laughter.

Now don’t get me wrong. Pat was no Mother Theresa. She could be bawdy and brash. She was often profane. She liked to have a Scotch on occasion. Sometimes two. She took delight in the foibles and follies that make up the human comedy we call life. The memorial service was one of the most joyous I have ever attended. As family and friends retold stories of her life, laughter echoed inside the chapel and it seemed as though Pat was there as well, smiling and laughing along with us.

After the service, the family planned to scatter her ashes upon the waters of Narragansett Bay. In the late afternoon, a line of thunderstorms rippled through the area. As I watched the lightning flash and heard the thunder booming in the distance, I wondered if Pat hadn’t orchestrated this little bit of natural drama to test her new found powers in the celestial world. When the sun burst through afterwards, I asked myself if  this wasn’t Pat’s way of reminding us she would always be around, smiling down upon us. It would be just like here to do something like that!

Adieu, Pat Whitfield. I will carry your memory in my heart forever.

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In Which I Deliver A Scholarly Address


Last weekend, my wife and I journeyed to the beautiful campus of Monmouth University in New Jersey for the annual Sports Literature Association conference. She, having a Ph.D. in media literacy, fit right in. I, on the other hand, have no credentials whatsoever. But in order to get me to drive her to New Jersey, she worked me into the program. But what to talk about?

After wracking my brain and coming up empty (a common occurrence for me), my wife suggested I talk about the day I was in Siena, Italy on the day the Gran Premio di Tazio Nuvolari came to town. The Nuvolari is not a race. It is mostly an excuse to take the wraps off million dollar antique race cars and take them for a ride across Italy from Pisa to the Adriatic. The event stops at all major cities along the way and one of those stops was Il Campo in Siena.

Il Campo is the town square where the Palio horse race takes place twice a year, just as it has for the past 500 years. Actually, calling it a horse race is sort of like calling Lewis and Clark’s expedition a camping trip. The jockeys ride bare back and the only rule is to finish first. Thanks to the wonders of YouTube, I was able to entertain my audience with a clip of the actual racing. No matter how you try to describe it in words, seeing it live is the only way to demonstrate the violence and passion of this sporting contest.

The confluence of horse racing and motor racing in Il Campo made for an interesting presentation, one which was well received by my audience, judging from their comments afterwards. So now I can boast about my academic credentials, in addition to all the other honors I have accumulated in my life, such as……..Well, I’m sure there must be some.

If you would like to view all 332 photos I took that day in Siena, you can find them at this link. Enjoy!  : )

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Our Newport Escapade


DSC01220We spent last weekend in Newport on our first home exchange of 2013. Our exchange home was a delightful historic cottage just a few blocks from Broadway and a short walk from the waterfront.

Friday night found us in the hot tub, then watching the Red Sox game on TV. They lost, but somehow defeat is not as bitter when you are on vacation.

After a good night’s sleep, we walked to The Corner Cafe on Broadway for a sumptuous breakfast burrito. Then we dropped the top on the Miata and motored over to Second Beach in Middletown, where we spent the afternoon under a cloudless summer sky that poets and painters call “cerulean blue”.

Second Beach Middletown RIAfter dabbling our toes in the ocean (still a little cool for swimming at this time of year), we read books and worked on ridding our bodies of the deathly white skin bequeathed to us by too much time indoors over the course of a long winter.

And then serendipity beguiled us. Willie Nelson was in town! Who could resist seeing Willie in concert? We called the ticket office and secured the last two tickets for the event. After dinner at The Fifth Element, we strolled downtown to the Newport Yachting Center to hear him croon his way through his entire repertoire. We left just in time to get ahead of the crowd and hustled over to our favorite gelato emporium on Thames Street.

Boston Bruins Hockey As we were licking our sugar cones on our way home, we heard a cry of delight erupt from one of the taverns along Thames Street. The Bruins had scored a goal to tie the score of Game Two in the Stanley Cup finals. We got home in time to watch the third period. The game ended in a tie, but then our beloved Bruins prevailed over the Black Hawks in overtime.  What a day!

Sail NewportOn Sunday, we drifted back to The Corner Cafe for Portuguese sweet bread french toast coated with maple butter. Oh my. What a delicious way to start the day! Then we drove around 10 Mile Drive, ending up at Sail Newport at Fort Adams. Since we are members, we took one of their J 22’s out for a 3 hour sail on Narragansett Bay, before turning the Miata homeward once again.

The home exchange may be the best idea since paved roads. We have done about a dozen of them now and they have made for some memorable vacations. This one was only an hour away from home but we packed so much into a few short days, it seemed like we were gone for an entire week. Spending time in such a beautifully appointed home within walking distance of all the stores and shops in Newport made it memorable.

If you would like to view our photos of some of the historic homes we encountered as we walked around Newport, please follow this link.

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The Anniversary Gift


Wedding 2

17 years ago, Carolyn and I went to Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic. We planned to get married while we were there, but “The Judge” was always too busy to see us. I suspect that if we had come up with several hundred dollars, his schedule would have cleared immediately. Instead, we stood together in the warm Caribbean under a full moon at midnight and spoke our promises to each other. No magic words could have been more binding.

We considered ourselves married at this point, but when we got home to Chepachet, we made it official with a simple ceremony in our own backyard – just the two of us, a reverend who was a part time bartender, and two neighbors as witnesses. The dog and the cat watched from a distance. Here is a photo of the entire wedding party, gathered in and around the sleigh.

Wedding 1

Over the years, we have exchanged a number of anniversary gifts, but lately we have taken to buying a tree or shrub for the yard so we can share our gift with each other all year long. Last Sunday we went out to breakfast and then to our favorite nursery to buy our plant for this year. But sadly, the nursery was closed.

Flowering Almond

We debated going back next Saturday, but what the heck. If you are going to buy a gift for your anniversary, you should do it on your anniversary, not a week later, right?

We found another nursery that was open and stumbled upon this beautiful flowering almond, which now occupies a prominent position in our yard.

So, how did all this marriage stuff get started? Well, I came home one day after a snow storm almost 20 years ago and found this large snow bunny in the yard. I think it was the whiskers that did it for me. How could I not be smitten with a woman who had such artistic skills and a sense of humor?

Wedding 3

It’s been 17 years together now, during which we have traveled the world and invited the world to visit with us at our bed & breakfast.  We have made new friends and lost old friends. And we have upgraded our rustic shanty on the lake into a comfortable country manse. Through it all, we have become the closest of friends. Not a day goes by when I don’t thank the Powers That Be for bringing Carolyn into my life. What she sees in me, I will never know. But I am awfully grateful to that snow bunny for bringing us together and making us soul mates.

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The Great Easter Egg Hunt


DSC01191The Easter Bunny came to call this past weekend. Sunday was a glorious day with sunny skies and warm temperatures – the kind of day that gives us hope that we will  actually be able to go to the beach again some day soon. The grandkids were in attendance, due to their parents moving into a new home, so of course we had to have an Easter Egg Hunt.

Tradition dictates hard boiling a couple dozen eggs, then dipping them in all sorts of exotic potions to make the shells turn festive colors. But we decided to take the easy way out and just use plastic eggs, which have the added advantage of being able to store jelly beans and such inside.

DSC01174Lillian was so excited by the idea of an Easter Egg Hunt on Saturday night she was sure she wouldn’t be able to get to sleep. But she did and stayed asleep until the unheard of hour of 7 am! After getting dressed, brushing teeth, putting on shoes and finding coats, the kids were ready to set off in search of the precious cargo brought by the Easter Bunny.

Squeals of delight echoed across the yard as they found dozens of brightly colored eggs cleverly hidden behind shrubs, under planters and beneath piles of leaves. All the jelly beans were carefully collected, so they would not have too big a sugar rush early in the day. To preserve their dietary integrity, I personally tried to eat as many jelly beans as I could. No wonder Ronald Reagan kept a jar of jelly beans on his desk in the Oval Office. Those things are delicious. And addictive!

DSC01194The next order of business was an Easter breakfast featuring scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, cereal, toast, honeydew melon and yogurt. Oh, and some pizza left over from Saturday dinner. Yummm….

The kids are getting to the age where they are an absolute joy to have around. They enjoy reading books and coloring inside the lines. They even pick out their own wardrobe and get dressed by themselves. For the most part, anyway. Teddy still needs help with shoes.

Childhood is such a wonderful time. Lillian is right at the point where she’s not sure if the legend of the Easter Bunny is true or not. For myself, I know he’s real. I met him myself.

 

 

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My New Roadster


Cadillac Allante

In 1955, a neighbor took me for a ride in his  Jaguar XK-120. It was Olde English white with red leather interior. I still remember the smell of hot oil, the sound of the exhaust, the feel of the wind in my face and the sight of the clouds sliding by overhead.  As we motored along, he explained the difference between a convertible and a roadster to me. He said, “A convertible is a two seater that has a top you  put down under ideal conditions.  A roadster is a two seater that has a top you put up only when you have no other choice!”

XK 120

Over the years, I have owned a number of roadsters – an MGA, several MGB’s and presently a Mazda Miata. Yesterday, I took possession of my latest roadster, a 1991 Cadillac Allante. This model was designed to be a “halo” car for Cadillac – a top of the line offering that would raise the public perception of Cadillac at a time when its image in the marketplace was seriously tarnished.

Allante side view

The Allante was styled by renowned Italian coach builder PininFarina, a firm that had also designed a number of Ferraris. The cars were built in America, then flown across the Atlantic to Italy, where the craftsmen at PininFarina would complete the car and ship it back to America. The process was frightfully expensive, of course, which meant the cars were outrageously costly. My car retailed for over $53,000 in 1991. In today’s dollars, that would be well into 6 figure territory! Sadly, slow sales meant the Allante was discontinued in 1993 after only a 6 year production run.

Isadora DuncanThere is something about a roadster that just makes us smile. It promises speed, power and adventure with a hint of danger. After all, actress Isadora Duncan was strangled while riding in a roadster when her long scarf became entangled in the rear wheel. People started wearing much shorter scarfs after that!

The new car was called “Pearl” by the prior owners and it is a most fitting name for this pearl white beauty. So welcome, Pearl. I wonder what motoring adventures are in store for us?

 

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Sydney Is Simply Stunning


Sydney Australia

Sydney, Australia is one of the world’s great cities. It has a beautiful harbor like San Francisco, a thriving  Chinatown like New York, a mix of old and new architecture like London, and a vibrant performing arts culture like Paris. But it has one huge advantage over all those other cities – great beaches are just 30 minutes from downtown.

Ferry Terminal At Circular Quai

The Ferry Terminal At Circular Quai

As befits a city whose early inhabitants arrived on sailing ships, life in Sydney centers around Circular Quai -pronounced “key” – the harborside transportation hub where all ferries, most bus and most train routes intersect. A few steps East of the ferry wharf is the iconic Sydney Opera House. A few steps West lies The Rocks, the area where the very first settlers came ashore. A visitor could spend a week in the vicinity of Circular Quai, with its plethora of hotels, shops, restaurants and cultural opportunities, and never be bored.

First Permanent Structure In The Rocks

The First Permanent Structure In The Rocks Section Of Sydney

Sydney Architecture

Old And New Co-exist in the Central Business District

Just a 5 minute walk from Circular Quai is the Central Business District, or CBD. It bristles with modern skyscrapers of chrome and glass but is also studded with historic buildings dating back to the 1800’s. The story goes that the city experienced a building boom during the 1970’s, aided in no small measure by the completion of the Sydney Opera House. Older structures were being demolished at a furious pace to make room for new office towers  until the head of the local construction union – a man known for being stubborn and cantankerous – decided enough was enough. He pulled his men off all the demolition projects and served notice that they would not return to work until some historic preservation guidelines were set. Thanks to his efforts, many beautiful building were saved from the wrecking ball and Sydney now features an architectural heritage that spans its entire existence.

One of the marvels of  the CBD is the Queen Victoria Building, a 5 story enclosed shopping mall that stretches an entire city block.  Hundreds of trendy shops and eateries fill its cavernous interior. Hanging from the ceiling in the middle of the building is a fantastic clock that shows the time, the month, the day of the week, and the phase of the moon. Its second hand is a sailing ship that circumnavigates the timepiece once a minute. It is one of the world’s great time pieces.

Queen Victoria Building

Inside the Queen Victoria Building, a celebration of the Chinese New Year is underway.

At the edge of the CBD, you can step across the street and be in one of Sydney’s glorious public parks. The Botanical Garden is an area filled with exotic plants and trees that begins at the harbor and extends inland along the edge of the CBD for 2 miles. As is normal in Australia, clean public restrooms are plentiful. There are no “Rest Rooms For Customers Only” signs anywhere. America could learn a lesson from the Aussies about the basics of hospitality.

Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens are located right next to the Central Business District

Welcome Wall in Darling Harbor

Section of the Welcome Wall in Darling Harbor

After World War II, Australia opened its arms to people of every nationality and culture. I believe Sydney is the most culturally diverse community I have ever visited. In the Newtown neighborhood, just a short drive from the CBD, restaurants featuring offerings from the Near East, Middle East, Far East, Europe and South America extend as far as the eye can see. Pizza is also in plentiful supply, of course, having conquered the world the way the Roman Empire never could.

At the ferry landing in Darling Harbor stands a Welcome Wall honoring the steady flow of immigrants to Australia over time. What other country celebrates its immigrants in this way?

 

For the visitor, Sydney is blessed with an outstanding transit system that makes it possible to see the entire area from the comfort of a bus, ferry or train that is clean, quiet and on time. When the schedule says the train to Cronulla leaves at 1:00 p.m., it means exactly that – not one minute before or one minute after. I even heard the crew of a ferry boat come on the intercom and apologize to passengers for being 5 minute late – and this was during rush hour. Try that on the Long Island Railroad! You can buy a MyMulti weekly pass that permits unlimited travel on any bus, ferry or train for a paltry $60.00 a week. That may be the best transportation deal on the planet.

One aspect of Sydney that fascinates me is the variety of neighborhoods surrounding it. From the ferry, one can visit such harborside communities as Kiribilli, Neutral Bay, Mosman, Double Bay, Rose Bay and Manly. Each one is a jewel nestled on the shores of the harbor, with its own distinctive culture and charm.

Rose Bay

Rose Bay as seen from the ferry

I have yet to visit the other metropolitan areas of Australia – Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Darwin and Perth. Perhaps some day I will, though the distances between cities is enormous. Melbourne is a 10 hour train ride from Sydney. Yet there is an allure about Sydney that puts a smile on my lips every time I think about it. I can’t wait to go back. Maybe that’s the best endorsement of all.

Harbor Bridge

Sydney Harbor and the Harbor Bridge from the ferry dock at Balmain East.

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Life’s A Beach


The town of Manly is just 30 minutes north of Sydney, Australia by ferry. It is a town that caters to tourists and young professionals who make their living in the city but prefer to live in a place that is more relaxed and with less congestion. It also boasts one of the finest ocean beaches in the world – warm brown sand, abundant surf and a tree lined promenade that stretches for two miles or more along the verge of the Pacific.

My wife and I went to visit Manly during our recent trip to Australia. We chanced upon a delightful small hotel that had an ocean view and a roof top sundeck with pool that was reasonably priced. We liked it so much, we wound up calling the kids back in Sydney to say we had decided to stay an extra night.

Protected beach just a 10 minute walk from Manly.

Aussies are an active lot. Everywhere we looked, people were walking, jogging, biking, surfing, or taking courses at the local surf rescue school. At 7 a.m., we looked out the window to see a group of young men and women taking boxing lessons on the beach. Later, we watched as a young family went power walking down to the ferry landing to see Dad off to work in Sydney. He had his briefcase and suit coat over his shoulder. She was pushing the double wide stroller so the kids could wave to him from the shore. Somehow, commuting by ferry doesn’t seem as numbing as taking the Long Island Railroad into Manhattan every day.

Sydney Harbor from the air with Manly in the foreground

Every time we go away, we ponder what it would be like to live in the areas we visit. Mostly, reality kicks in after a little while and we are glad to get back home when the journey is over. But we could live in Manly and be very happy. It is a nice blend of beachside life in a warm and scenic setting but with all the benefits of the city just a ferry ride away.

Later in our travels, we spent an afternoon at Bondi Beach, one of the most iconic shorefront communities in the world.  But as pretty as Bondi is, the area was too crowded, too frantic and had too much traffic for our tastes. Plus, there is something about taking a ferry ride on Sydney Harbor that is delightfully relaxing, especially compared to the combination of trains and buses needed to get to Bondi.

Bondi Beach Panorama

We’re not sure when we will be going back to Australia, but we know that when we do, more time in Manly will be on the agenda. Lovely town. Can’t wait to sit on this bench again and gaze out at the town of Manly and the ocean beyond.

A peaceful place by the sea.

You can see all of the photos from the Manly excursion at this link.  Enjoy!

 

 

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A Night At The Opera


100_0562When you think of Australia, what image comes to mind? For most folks, it is the Sydney Opera House, that iconic building that stands on the shores of Sydney Harbor. There really is no structure quite like it anywhere else in the world.

During World War II, Australians were shocked when England all but abandoned them and then had the nerve to ask their soldiers to go help British forces elsewhere. Suddenly, they found themselves all alone in the vast Pacific. It was then they realized they were not really a part of Europe at all, but rather an adjunct of Asia. That rude awakening caused a national identity crisis.

The Sydney Opera House changed all that. Just as the Taj Mahal stands as a symbol of India, this bold, sweeping structure on the shores of Sydney Harbor has come to define how Australians see themselves and and how the rest of the world sees Australia.

Opera House

The story of how the Sydney Opera House came to be is a fascinating tale. In 1948, the director of the Sydney Opera proposed the construction of new facility. A call went out around the world for people to submit design proposals. Most of them were insipid or derivative. Some were just square concrete boxes reminiscent of Soviet era architecture. But one, from Danish architect Jørn Utzon, was different. So different, in fact, that it was rejected initially by the design committee.

Utzon’s submission amounted to little more than some rough sketches with few architectural details. But his vision so impressed world renowned architect Eero Saarinen, who was asked to help make the final selection, that it was rescued from the pile of discarded designs and declared the winner.

Orignal Design Sketch

Sydney was scandalized. The concept was too bold, too out of the ordinary, too brash. Many doubted whether Utzon’s vision could even be built. But Sydney decided to push ahead and construction started in 1958. Due to the enormous engineering challenges presented by the design, the building would not be completed until 1973.

Its most distinctive elements are the sparkling white roof panels that soar above the harbor. Some say they represent the billowing sails of the ships that brought most Australians to these shores. Others say they are really a temple to the power of music. To me, the building reflects Australian culture as it has evolved in the post war period – bold, confident and assured.

Sydney Opera House Roof

In 2003, Utzon was awarded the Pritzker Prize, architecture’s highest honor. The award citation states:

There is no doubt that the Sydney Opera House is his masterpiece. It is one of the great iconic buildings of the 20th century, an image of great beauty that has become known throughout the world – a symbol for not only a city, but a whole country and continent.

In 2008, I had the excuse I needed to finally make the long journey Down Under to see this magnificent building for myself. My son Matt had moved there the year before. During a trip to visit him, I took him and his wife to a piano recital at The Opera House. Since we bought our tickets at the last minute, we were seated way at the back of the concert hall, yet the exquisite acoustics in the theater carried every note clearly to our ears. It was like we were sitting close enough to reach out and touch the piano. Incredible.

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On our trip in  February, my wife and I  attended a play at the Opera House. Afterwards, we sat outside on the promenade between the Opera House and the harbor. There are several cafes along the waterfront and the area is always packed with people. It’s as if the building is a magnet, attracting tourists and locals alike to come bask in its aura.

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Visiting the Sydney Opera House in person has been the defining moment of my globe trotting adventures. The building is such an enduring testament to human achievement that it is worth the trip even if you do nothing else in Australia. I am grateful that I have had the opportunity to take all the photos that accompany this post personally with my very own camera, rather than just plucking them from Google Images. I think that makes me a very lucky fellow.

Please enjoy them!

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Do You Come From A Land Down Under?


There has been about a three week gap since my last post, caused entirely by being out of the country on an extended trip to Australia to visit family and further explore that island continent. If you are so inclined, you may read the entire saga of my 2009 journey to Oz at this link – Australia 2009.

The City of Newcastle as seen from Old Nobby

After a few days with Matt and his family in Sydney, I took the train 2.5 hours north to the seaside community of Newcastle, rumored to be the 6th largest city in Australia. Once there, I found a delightful habitation nestled against the Pacific Ocean on one side and an ocean estuary on the other with beautiful beaches everywhere.

I spent about 3 hours traipsing about, taking photos and absorbing the local atmosphere. The high point of my day was a delightful grilled chicken sandwich with bacon and avocado, eaten whilst overlooking the water. Umm….umm. Delicious!

I rather enjoyed my visit to Newcastle. The rain that pelted the train on the way up gave way to a gorgeous day of blue skies dotted with cottony clouds. I got quite a bit of sun just walking around – a reminder that Australia is a bit nearer the Equator than we New Englanders are accustomed to.  Sunscreen is not an option.

Whether Newcastle is a large town or a small city makes little difference. It is a comfortable and inviting place to be that features extensive green space, exquisite architecture and a rolling terrain reminiscent of San Francisco. And it has Old Nobby keeping vigil over the surroundings night and day. Not every place can make that claim!

Old Nobby stands guard over Newcastle

For more photos of Newcastle, please follow this link.

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